TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
2024
Aurélien Guichard
Perfume
Fall, Winter
OLFACTORY ARCHITECTURE
Matiere Premiere
Radical Rose Extrait
Unisex 2024 Extrait de Parfum
Radical Rose Extrait Radical Rose Extrait by Matiere Premiere is a potent 2024 unisex release that intensifies the brand's signature Rose Centifolia Absolute. Crafted by perfumer Aurélien Guichard, this extrait is distinguished by an "overdose" of rose sourced from the brand's organic fields in Grasse. The addition of Croatian immortelle absolute introduces a unique mineral and salt-inflected character, deepening the floral core into a more robust, untamed, and multifaceted composition that balances bright spicy facets with a dark, woody backbone.
The fragrance opens with a vibrant blend of saffron and pepper berries before evolving into a rich, jammy heart. Its base of patchouli and labdanum provides an earthy, resinous depth that ensures exceptional longevity and nuclear projection. While significantly more expensive than the original Eau de Parfum, the Extrait offers a smoother, oilier texture and a more sophisticated, nocturnal profile. It is a bold, unapologetic choice for rose enthusiasts seeking a high-concentration scent that commands attention.
Radical Rose Extrait delivers exceptional, nuclear performance that significantly surpasses the original Eau de Parfum. It boasts extraordinary longevity, frequently lasting over twelve hours on the skin and remaining on clothing for days. The projection is massive and room-filling for the first four to five hours before settling into a dense, persistent aura.
The sillage is powerful and opulent, leaving a heavy, sophisticated trail of dark rose and spices. Due to its intense concentration, a single spray is often sufficient. This fragrance is best suited for cooler weather or formal evening events, as its overwhelming potency can become cloying in high heat or confined spaces.
Radical Rose Extrait was launched in 2024 as part of the new Extrait Collection from the niche house Matiere Premiere. Developed by founder and master perfumer Aurélien Guichard, this intensified version seeks to evolve the brand's original 2020 bestseller. It highlights the house's unique farm-to-fragrance philosophy, utilizing Rose Centifolia Absolute sourced directly from Guichard’s own organic flower farm in Grasse, France.
The composition marks a creative shift by introducing Croatian Immortelle Absolute as a "guest ingredient." This addition, combined with a higher perfume concentration, was designed to reveal a darker, mineral, and more robust facet of the rose. Since its debut, the Extrait has been celebrated for its opulent and "sultry" character, successfully pushing the boundaries of traditional floral perfumery through unprecedented dosages of raw natural materials.
KEY ADVANTAGES
- - Features an exceptionally high concentration of Rose Centifolia Absolute sourced from the brand’s own organic fields in Grasse
- - Enhanced with Immortelle Absolute to create a deeper, more robust, and mineralic interpretation of the original rose profile
- - Exceptional performance offering long-lasting longevity and strong projection that can fill a room
- - Sophisticated unisex appeal that leans masculine, making it a versatile choice for those seeking a dark, spicy rose without oud
- - Masterfully crafted by renowned perfumer Aurélien Guichard to balance jammy sweetness with earthy patchouli and resinous warmth
POTENTIAL DRAWBACKS
- - Extremely high price point, retailing around 350 Euros, which many find prohibitive compared to the original Eau de Parfum.
- - Potentially overwhelming performance with nuclear projection that can be cloying or suffocating if over-applied.
- - Leanings toward a more masculine, dark, and earthy profile may not appeal to those seeking a traditional or feminine rose.
- - Heavy patchouli and spicy immortelle notes can become nauseating or headache-inducing for some users during the dry down.
- - Limited versatility as the dense, intense composition is generally considered unsuitable for hot summer weather or casual daytime wear.
Designer Biography
Born in Grasse to a lineage of seven generations of perfumers, Aurélien Guichard is a renowned Senior Perfumer at Takasago. Trained at the Givaudan Perfumery School, he has crafted iconic scents for major luxury houses including Burberry, Gucci, and Narciso Rodriguez. His work is celebrated for its technical precision and emotional resonance.
In 2019, Guichard co-founded Matière Première, where he serves as the primary nose. He is the only perfumer globally to grow his own organic ingredients, such as Rose Centifolia and tuberose, on his family farm in Provence. This farm-to-fragrance approach emphasizes the raw beauty and sustainable sourcing of high-quality natural materials.
Global User Sentiment
| SOURCE | RATING | SENTIMENT CLUSTER |
|---|---|---|
| Fragrantica | 4.43 / 5 | ROSEWARM SPICYPATCHOULIWOODYFRESH SPICYEARTHYMETALLICLEATHERBALSAMICTOBACCO |
| Sephora | 5 / 5 | WARMFLORALSPICY |
