TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
2024
Aurélien Guichard
Perfume
Fall, Winter
OLFACTORY ARCHITECTURE
Matiere Premiere
Encens Suave Extrait
Unisex 2024 Extrait de Parfum
Encens Suave Extrait Encens Suave Extrait by Matiere Premiere is an opulent 2024 reimagining of the original incense masterpiece. Created by perfumer Aurélien Guichard, this unisex extrait de parfum features an increased concentration of Somali incense oil and a higher dosage of natural raw materials. The addition of a rich amber guest ingredient amplifies the fragrance's warmth, creating a deeply comforting and luxurious profile. It opens with a unique burst of roasted coffee before transitioning into a heart of smoky frankincense and vanilla.
The composition is celebrated for its exceptional longevity, often lasting ten hours on the skin, and a strong, sophisticated sillage. By blending resinous amber with the existing boozy Madagascan vanilla and benzoin, the scent achieves a caramel-like creaminess that evokes the atmosphere of a sacred cathedral. This complex, amber-spicy fragrance is particularly suited for cold weather and evening events, offering a more intense, refined experience than its predecessor for connoisseurs who value depth and artisanal precision in niche perfumery.
Encens Suave Extrait delivers exceptional performance, notably surpassing the original Eau de Parfum. It boasts remarkable longevity, typically lasting between 12 to 14 hours on the skin, and can persist on clothing for days. This beast mode endurance is achieved through a higher perfume concentration and an increased dosage of Somalian incense oil, ensuring the rich, ambery warmth remains vibrant throughout the day.
While the longevity is elite, the sillage is more intimate and sophisticated, sitting closer to the skin than its predecessor. It creates a dense, luxurious aura that envelops the wearer in a comforting cloud of smoky vanilla and resinous amber. This refined projection makes it an ideal choice for those who prefer a persistent, high-quality presence that commands attention through proximity rather than overwhelming a room.
Released in 2024, Encens Suave Extrait is part of the inaugural collection of five extraits from Matiere Premiere. Developed by founder and master perfumer Aurélien Guichard, this version serves as a deeper, more intense evolution of the original 2019 Eau de Parfum. The fragrance was designed to amplify the core identity of Somalian incense by utilizing a higher oil concentration and a meticulous maturation process, ensuring a more profound and opulent olfactory experience for the wearer.
The creative vision centered on the addition of amber as a guest ingredient to enhance the resinous warmth of the composition. Guichard sought to capture the golden and brown hues of an incense rock, blending traditional French perfumery techniques with modern simplicity. This release reinforces the brand's commitment to high-quality natural raw materials, with the incense oil being dosed at its highest possible concentration to create a powerful, addictive, and carnal scent trail.
KEY ADVANTAGES
- - Features a powerful and addictive olfactory profile centered on a high-quality blend of coffee, incense, and vanilla.
- - Enhanced with a rich amber guest ingredient that provides significant depth, warmth, and resinous complexity.
- - Boasts a high perfume concentration that delivers exceptional longevity and a memorable, long-lasting trail.
- - Formulated with premium natural ingredients, including a higher dosage of Somali incense oil for a sophisticated experience.
- - Offers a versatile and refined unisex character that appeals to lovers of bold, spiritual, and opulent oriental fragrances.
POTENTIAL DRAWBACKS
- - High price point makes it a significant investment compared to the original Eau de Parfum and other niche incense fragrances.
- - Sillage is described as intimate and minimal, as the extrait concentration tends to sit much closer to the skin than the original version.
- - The scent profile can be polarizing, with some users finding the added ambery sweetness and resinous smoke to be cloying or overwhelming.
- - Several reviewers note that the coffee note is difficult to detect or entirely absent, which may disappoint those looking for a prominent gourmand element.
- - Perception of value is mixed, with some users viewing the extrait as a "money grab" that offers limited evolution from the original formulation.
Designer Biography
Born into a seven-generation lineage of perfumers in Grasse, Aurélien Guichard was raised amidst fields of jasmine and roses. He refined his craft at the Givaudan Perfumery School before embarking on a distinguished career. Guichard has composed over 150 fragrances for major houses, including Versace, Gucci, and Narciso Rodriguez.
In 2019, he co-founded Matiere Premiere, where he serves as the lead perfumer. As the only perfumer to grow his own organic ingredients in Grasse, he champions a farm-to-fragrance approach. Today, he balances creating minimalist, ingredient-focused scents with managing his family’s Ecocert-certified rose and tuberose farms.
Global User Sentiment
| SOURCE | RATING | SENTIMENT CLUSTER |
|---|---|---|
| Fragrantica | 4.26 / 5 | AMBERWARM SPICYVANILLACOFFEE |
| Sephora | I do not have enough information to provide a Sephora rating for Encens Suave Extrait. The provided search data includes a Fragrantica rating (4.26) and mentions its availability on Sephora platforms, but it does not contain a specific numerical rating from Sephora for this fragrance. / 5 | WARM & SPICYWOODY & EARTHYAMBER |
