Fragrance Notes Are Layers Of Scent That Are Layered To Form The Final Fragrance. Fragrance Notes Are Categorised Into Three Main Elements Based On How Long They Take To Evaporate, And How Long They Typically Last Following Application: Top Notes, Heart Notes And Base Notes.

FRUITS, VEGETABLES AND NUTS Family

Cloudberry

Cloudberry offers a unique, complex aroma, blending the fresh, slightly tart sweetness of wild berries (like raspberry and red currant) with a subtle, earthy, and sometimes musky undertone. It provides a natural, luminous lift, combining fruity succulence with grounded, forest-floor depth, lending sophisticated naturalism to compositions.

Origin: Arctic and subarctic regions of the Northern Hemisphere, including Scandinavia, Russia, Canada, and Alaska.

Extraction: Distilled

Popularity 70/100
Cloudberry

Origin & Extraction Of Cloudberry

Cloudberry (*Rubus chamaemorus*) is a wild, complex berry native to circumpolar regions, including Scandinavia, Canada, and Russia. Historically, its fruit and leaves have been utilized for culinary and medicinal purposes in these northern cultures. Due to the challenging nature of harvesting and extracting the oil, Cloudberry did not feature in classical perfumery traditions, which primarily focused on easier-to-source botanicals like Mediterranean citruses and flowers.

The use of Cloudberry as a dedicated note in fine fragrance is a relatively modern development, emerging with the rise of niche and contemporary perfumery, which seeks unique and exotic natural profiles. Perfumers prize Cloudberry for its sophisticated aroma, which bridges the tart freshness of wild berries with subtle musky, earthy undertones, allowing it to add a sophisticated, naturalistic depth and luminous lift to modern compositions, particularly those evocative of cold, wild landscapes.

Extraction Methods of Cloudberry

Historically, cloudberry aromatic compounds and juices were obtained through simple manual techniques such as crushing, mashing, and pressing the soft, ripe berries through sieves, food mills, or layers of cheesecloth to separate the juice from the seeds and skins. Because cloudberries are naturally high in benzoic acid, they were traditionally preserved by being stored in their own juice or made into purees and jams through gentle heating and sugar-saturation. For more specialized uses, traditional maceration and infusion into plant oils or alcohol were employed to capture the berry's delicate, lipid-rich nutrients and volatile actives.

Modern extraction has evolved to utilize advanced technologies that improve efficiency and preserve the fruit's complex profile without high heat. Supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2) extraction is now a primary method for isolating high-quality cloudberry seed oil, while hydrothermal extraction and enzyme-assisted processes are used to recover water-soluble polyphenols and ellagitannins from industrial byproducts like press cake. Recent innovations also include seed sanding technology, which mechanically removes the outer seed coat to recover bioactive compounds, and multi-stage alcohol filtration techniques to produce concentrated extracts for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

Cloudberry, valued for its complex blend of tart, fresh wild berries and subtle earthy undertones, has become a key ingredient in modern fragrances seeking a unique, luminous profile. This note is particularly prominent in the youthful and cheerful collections of designer houses, adding a bright, sophisticated fruity layer to the top notes.

  • A prime example of Cloudberry's use is in the Marc Jacobs universe, especially within the Daisy franchise. Fragrances like Daisy Love (2018), Daisy Love Skies (2021), and the more recent Daisy Love Pop (2023) all feature this note to evoke an airy, sweet, and uplifting freshness, cementing its reputation as a modern classic berry.

Beyond designer mass-market appeal, Cloudberry also finds a home in celebrity and niche perfumes where exotic or gourmand profiles are explored. For instance, it provides a tart, vibrant edge to the sweet fantasy scents of celebrity lines, such as Rainbow Fantasy by Britney Spears (2019) and Viva La Juicy Petals Please by Juicy Couture (2022). Furthermore, newer niche releases like Svensk Parfym's Idyll (2019), and contemporary gourmands like Oakcha's Marshmallow Mist (2024) utilize Cloudberry to balance sweetness with a naturalistic, slightly tart lift, lending depth to compositions that evoke snowy, wild Nordic landscapes or cozy dessert accords.

The cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus) follows a precise seasonal cycle in northern wetlands, typically blooming with white flowers in early summer, between mid-May and June. The highly anticipated harvest is exceptionally brief, generally lasting from a few weeks to a month between mid-July and August, as the berries transform from hard red specimens to soft, golden-amber treasures. This window is heavily influenced by local climate and weather patterns; late spring frosts can easily damage delicate blossoms, while peak ripeness occurs about six weeks after flowering begins. Due to this short availability, the berries are often frozen or preserved as jams to be enjoyed year-round, particularly during traditional winter celebrations like Christmas.

Sustainability Of Cloudberry

Sustainability of Cloudberry

  • Promoting a circular economy by repurposing waste materials and by-products from the harvest into high-value fragrance ingredients and pharmaceutical products
  • Adoption of responsible harvesting practices in wild environments to ensure the preservation of delicate sub-arctic ecosystems and biodiversity
  • Supporting local communities and harvesters through fair-trade initiatives and ethical sourcing policies that ensure socio-economic resilience
  • Implementation of energy-efficient extraction methods, such as supercritical CO2 extraction, to reduce the carbon footprint and avoid the use of harsh chemical solvents
  • Commitment to long-term environmental stewardship through active monitoring of wild populations to prevent overharvesting and ensure species longevity

Trivia

Known as the "Arctic Gold," the cloudberry is a rare, elusive fruit that cannot be commercially farmed and must be hand-harvested from the wild, making it one of the most expensive and prized berries in the world.

FAQ
  • What is Cloudberry?

    Cloudberry is a rare, wild berry native to arctic and subarctic regions like Scandinavia and Canada, prized in modern perfumery for its sophisticated and luminous profile.
  • What does Cloudberry smell like?

    It offers a complex aroma blending fresh, tart sweetness reminiscent of raspberry and red currant with subtle earthy and musky forest-floor undertones.
  • How is Cloudberry essence extracted?

    In modern perfumery, high-quality essence is primarily obtained through supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2) extraction or distillation to preserve its delicate aromatic compounds.
  • What are some top perfumes featuring Cloudberry?

    Notable fragrances include Marc Jacobs Daisy Love, Marc Jacobs Daisy Love Pop, Oakcha Marshmallow Mist, and Britney Spears Rainbow Fantasy.
  • When is Cloudberry in season?

    The harvest is exceptionally brief, occurring between mid-July and August after the white flowers bloom in early summer.