Fragrance Notes Are Layers Of Scent That Are Layered To Form The Final Fragrance. Fragrance Notes Are Categorised Into Three Main Elements Based On How Long They Take To Evaporate, And How Long They Typically Last Following Application: Top Notes, Heart Notes And Base Notes.

BEVERAGES Family

Wine must

The Wine Must note captures the intense, sweet, and complex aroma of fermenting grape juice. It delivers rich, concentrated red and dark fruit facets (like crushed grape, raisin, and fig), underpinned by a subtle yeasty, alcoholic effervescence and a honeyed, jam-like warmth, suggesting the early stages of winemaking.

Origin: West Asia, specifically the South Caucasus region including Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Turkey

Extraction: Pressed

Popularity 71/100
Wine must

Origin & Extraction Of Wine must

The history of the "Wine must" note in perfumery is closely linked to the winemaking byproduct known as "wine lees," the organic sediment of yeast and tartar that naturally forms at the bottom of vats during fermentation and aging. While the practice of managing this sediment to influence wine quality dates back to ancient viticulture, the utilization of its distilled essence in modern fragrance composition is a more contemporary phenomenon. This perfumery note represents an evolution in scent-making, seeking to capture the complex, authentic aromas inherent in wines and spirits rather than simply using wine as a solvent or additive.

In perfumery, this note is derived from essential oils extracted from the lees through hydrodistillation, capturing the characteristic profile of fermented grapes. These oils are valued for their rich and complex olfactory signature, offering vibrant nuances that can include fruity, alcoholic, woody, and subtly floral accents. The note provides fragrances with a sensual, warm, and distinctly boozy depth, allowing perfumers to evoke the elegance and complexity of fine wines and brandies for sophisticated, contemporary compositions.

Extraction Methods of Wine Must

The extraction of wine must, the freshly pressed juice containing grape skins, seeds, and stems, begins with the physical breaking of the fruit. Historically, this was achieved through foot treading, a gentle method still used in traditional Port production to liberate juice without crushing bitter seeds. Ancient viticulture also utilized early mechanical screw and basket presses. In modern perfumery, the "Wine Must" note is often derived from the hydrodistillation of wine lees—the organic sediment of yeast and tartar—to capture the complex, boozy, and fruity aromatic precursors of the winemaking process.

Contemporary extraction employs advanced technologies to maximize purity and aromatic intensity. Modern wineries utilize pneumatic bladder or hydraulic presses to apply uniform pressure, while "supraextraction" involves flash-freezing grapes to -4°C to burst cell membranes before warming and pressing. For fragrance applications, techniques such as vacuum distillation, reverse osmosis, and CO2 extraction are used to isolate specific volatile molecules, allowing perfumers to replicate the nuanced scent of fermenting grapes and aged spirits with high precision.

Wine must, or 'Vinum Mustum,' captures the intense, fresh aroma of freshly crushed fruit juice, including the skins, seeds, and stems, providing a uniquely fruity, tart, and slightly earthy scent that speaks to the beginning of the fermentation process. In contemporary artisanal perfumery, this note is used to ground abstract concepts of vintage and indulgence. Recent examples featuring this specific raw note include Hug Me by Bruno Perrucci Parfums, Seigiorni by Agatho Parfum, and Légendario & Cohiba by Empreinte d'Effluves, which seek to embody the essence of 'young wine.'

  • Tom Ford Lost Cherry (uses spirits to create a profound, enchanting feeling reminiscent of a carefully aged fine wine)
  • Black Baccara Nosferatu and Midnight Mass (celebrated for their realistic red wine notes)
  • Penhaligon's The Tragedy of Lord George (features a deep cognac brandy accord)
  • Frapin's Nevermore (prominently uses wine lees and cognac for a refined, spirited opening)
  • Alkemia Persephone (features a dark red merlot wine note)

More broadly, the character of wine—from must to lees—is utilized to create rich, boozy, and intoxicating fruit accords across the high-end and designer fragrance market. The 'wine lees' (the spent yeast sediment) provide a dry, vinous depth, such as in Frapin's Nevermore, where they are paired with cognac for a refined, spirited opening. Similarly, fragrances like Tom Ford Lost Cherry and Tom Ford Bitter Peach use the sensation of deep red wine or spirits (rum) to convey a mature fruitiness, creating an opulent and sensual effect.

The rich profile of fermented grapes, particularly the dark, complex notes of Merlot, is a popular theme in specialized and independent perfumery. These scents often blend the core wine note with supporting accords like spices, leather, and vanilla to capture the experience of a deep vintage. Notable examples include the deep red wine focus of BPAL Wanda and **Black Baccara Nosferatu**, as well as the fruitier take in Vintner's Reserve Blackberry Wine and Olympic Orchids Carosello, which features Moscato wine.

Seasonality of Wine Must The seasonality of wine must is intrinsically linked to the annual vineyard cycle, specifically the ripening and harvest phase that typically occurs in autumn, between September and November. As the foliage falls and grapes reach peak phenolic maturity, they are harvested and pressed to begin the fermentation process, which creates the "must"—the fresh, intense mixture of juice, skins, and seeds. While the raw material is a product of the fall harvest, the note's presence in perfumery is often associated with the transition from the vibrant growth of summer to the richer, more contemplative moods of winter. In culinary traditions, particularly in Italy, this seasonal bounty is preserved by cooking the must into mosto cotto, a thick syrup that serves as a staple sweetener. Ultimately, wine must captures a specific, fleeting moment in the winemaking calendar, embodying the essence of "young wine" and the beginning of the fermentation journey.

Sustainability Of Wine must

Sustainability of Wine Must

  • Promoting a circular economy by upcycling wine lees and pomace into high-value bioactive compounds for the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries
  • Reducing environmental impact by repurposing fermentation residues to prevent water body oxygen depletion and greenhouse gas emissions
  • Adopting water conservation techniques such as drip irrigation, rainwater harvesting, and the reuse of vegetable water generated during grape processing
  • Implementing organic and biodynamic viticulture to enhance soil health, increase biodiversity, and eliminate the use of synthetic chemical pesticides
  • Supporting carbon sequestration and soil stability through the use of cover crops and no-till farming practices
  • Utilizing renewable energy sources like solar panels and geothermal systems to reduce the carbon footprint of winery operations

Trivia

In Italy, wine must is used to create mosto cotto, a thick grape syrup that served as the primary sweetener in Roman cooking long before cane sugar arrived in Europe.

FAQ

  • What is Wine Must?

    Wine Must, or Vinum Mustum, is the intense, fresh aroma of freshly crushed grape juice, including skins, seeds, and stems, captured during the early stages of the fermentation process.

  • What does Wine Must smell like?

    It features a sweet and complex profile of concentrated red and dark fruits like raisin and fig, balanced by a subtle yeasty effervescence and a honeyed, jam-like warmth.

  • How is Wine Must essence extracted for perfumery?

    The note is typically derived from essential oils extracted from wine lees—the organic sediment found in fermentation vats—through the process of hydrodistillation.

  • What are some top perfumes featuring Wine Must?

    Notable fragrances include Hug Me by Bruno Perrucci Parfums, Seigiorni by Agatho Parfum, and Légendario & Cohiba by Empreinte d'Effluves.

  • What is the historical significance of Wine Must?

    Historically used in Italy to create mosto cotto, a thick grape syrup used as a primary sweetener in Roman cooking, it now represents a contemporary evolution in scent-making to evoke the complexity of fine wines.