Fragrance Notes Are Layers Of Scent That Are Layered To Form The Final Fragrance. Fragrance Notes Are Categorised Into Three Main Elements Based On How Long They Take To Evaporate, And How Long They Typically Last Following Application: Top Notes, Heart Notes And Base Notes.

RESINS AND BALSAMS Family

Olibanum (Frankincense)

A fresh, complex balsamic resin with green, woody, and spicy facets. Olibanum is known for its invigorating, slightly fruity top note and deeper, sensual, and rich undertones, providing a mysterious warmth and refined structure, often used in woody or sacred compositions.

Origin: Southern Arabia (Oman and Yemen), India, and the Horn of Africa (Somalia, Ethiopia, Eritrea, and Sudan)

Extraction: Distilled

Popularity 77/100
Olibanum (Frankincense)

Origin & Extraction Of Olibanum (Frankincense)

Olibanum, or frankincense, is one of the oldest and most revered aromatic materials, with a history spanning over 5,000 years. Its name derives from the Old French franc encens, meaning 'pure incense,' underscoring its historical importance as a sacred material burned "through smoke" (per fumum), the very origin of the word 'perfume.' Extracted as a gum resin, or 'tears,' from the Boswellia tree, it was a central commodity along the ancient Incense Road. Ancient Egyptians used it extensively for religious offerings and mummification, and it was famously presented alongside myrrh and gold as a gift to the Christ child.

Despite its ancient lineage, Olibanum remains a fundamental ingredient in modern perfumery today. Historically, its complex, resinous, woody, and slightly citrusy scent provided a deep, long-lasting aroma in early fragrant preparations. In contemporary compositions, it is prized not just for its signature smoky 'church incense' scent, but also for its technical role as a fixative, adding longevity and structure to volatile top and heart notes. Olibanum lends a sophisticated, spiritual, and sometimes subtly sensual depth to both classic and niche fragrances.

Extraction Methods of Olibanum (Frankincense)

The primary modern method for extracting Olibanum essential oil is steam distillation of the dried gum resin. In this process, pressurized steam is passed through the resin 'tears,' causing the volatile aromatic compounds to be released and then condensed into a liquid. The resulting mixture naturally separates into the essential oil and a fragrant floral water known as hydrosol. For a more concentrated, semi-solid form often used as a fixative, solvent extraction is employed to produce Olibanum resinoid.

Historically, frankincense was used in its raw resinous state or through simple maceration in oils. Ancient Egyptians even charred the resin to create kohl eyeliner. Contemporary advancements have introduced supercritical CO2 extraction, which uses pressurized carbon dioxide to isolate a broader spectrum of bioactive compounds without heat degradation or solvent residue. Additionally, recent innovations include the development of nanoparticulate forms of frankincense extract to enhance bioavailability and skin absorption for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

Olibanum, or Frankincense, possesses a deeply rooted history in perfumery, serving as one of the world's most ancient aromatic materials used in religious and sacred rituals. This spiritual connection translates into a profound, often meditative, aroma in fine fragrances. A classic example of its sophisticated use is the vintage version of Chanel No. 22, where a soft frankincense musk is subtly placed in the base to anchor the composition, providing a luminous and tranquil depth.

The note is prominently celebrated in contemporary niche perfumery for its complexity, which ranges from fresh citrus to balsamic smoke. The fragrance Olibanum by Profumum Roma is dedicated entirely to this raw material, blending it with Myrrh, Orange flowers, and Sandalwood to create a mysterious and evocative incense-based scent. Another modern fragrance, Devil's Garden, puts Olibanum at its center to highlight its rich, smoky, and resinous nature for an assertive and warm profile.

Beyond being a central theme, Olibanum is highly valued as a supporting note, acting as a natural highlighter to add radiance and structure to a variety of perfume types. In modern compositions, its lemony sparkle and clean, pine-tinged resin enhance fresh-woody fragrances like Acqua di Giò Parfum, or provide the atmospheric, meditative core for scents such as Jovoy Paris La Liturgie des Heures, ensuring a long-lasting and harmonizing effect on the skin.

The seasonality of Olibanum is defined by the traditional harvesting cycles of Boswellia trees in arid regions like Oman, Yemen, and Somalia, where the resin is typically collected during the hottest months of the year. The tapping process, which involves making incisions in the bark to allow the "tears" of resin to ooze and harden, generally begins in the spring and continues through the summer. This timing is critical, as the intense heat aids in the exudation and solidification of the gum resin, ensuring peak aromatic quality and yield before the onset of any seasonal rains that could interfere with the drying process. After the resin has solidified on the tree for several weeks, it is hand-harvested, sorted, and then available for distillation throughout the year.

Sustainability Of Olibanum (Frankincense)

Sustainability of Olibanum (Frankincense)

  • Implementing sustainable harvesting practices such as resting trees and limiting the number and depth of tapping spots to prevent over-exploitation and ensure tree vitality
  • Adopting blockchain technology and mobile applications to provide full traceability from tree to oil, ensuring transparency and fair payments to local harvesters
  • Supporting reforestation and conservation initiatives, including the planting of native Boswellia saplings and the removal of parasitic plants to restore degraded woodlands
  • Establishing community-led forest management and area exclosures to protect trees from overgrazing, frequent fires, and land conversion
  • Promoting socioeconomic resilience by creating alternative livelihoods, such as apiculture, and ensuring harvesters receive fair market prices through ethical supply chains
  • Collaborating with global platforms like the Global Frankincense Alliance to disseminate best practices for sustainable propagation, regeneration, and trade legislation

Trivia

In ancient Egypt, women used charred frankincense as a primary ingredient in their famous heavy black kohl eyeliner, and when Tutankhamen’s tomb was opened in 1922, sealed flasks of frankincense oil were found to still be powerfully fragrant after 3,000 years.

FAQ
  • What is Olibanum (Frankincense)?

    Olibanum, commonly known as frankincense, is an aromatic gum resin obtained from Boswellia trees, primarily found in East Africa, India, and the Arabian Peninsula.
  • What does Olibanum smell like?

    It features a fresh, complex balsamic profile with green, woody, and spicy facets, often characterized by an invigorating citrusy top note and a warm, smoky, resinous depth.
  • How is Olibanum essence extracted for perfumery?

    The essence is typically obtained through steam distillation of the hardened resin "tears" to produce essential oil, or via solvent extraction to create a resinoid.
  • What are the benefits of Olibanum in perfume compositions?

    In addition to its meditative aroma, it acts as an excellent fixative, providing structure and increasing the longevity of more volatile ingredients on the skin.
  • What are some famous perfumes featuring Olibanum?

    Iconic fragrances containing this note include the vintage Chanel No. 22, Profumum Roma Olibanum, Acqua di Giò Parfum, and Jovoy Paris La Liturgie des Heures.