Fragrance Notes Are Layers Of Scent That Are Layered To Form The Final Fragrance. Fragrance Notes Are Categorised Into Three Main Elements Based On How Long They Take To Evaporate, And How Long They Typically Last Following Application: Top Notes, Heart Notes And Base Notes.

RESINS AND BALSAMS Family

Mastic or Lentisque

Mastic or Lentisque offers a bright, fresh balsamic aroma, intensely green, herbal, and terpene-like. It has a slightly sharp, camphoraceous facet that mellows to reveal warm, spicy woody and clean resinous undertones, often described as having a refined, aromatic Mediterranean zest.

Origin: Mediterranean Basin, specifically the Greek island of Chios, Morocco, and France

Extraction: Distilled

Popularity 92/100
Mastic or Lentisque

Origin & Extraction Of Mastic or Lentisque

Mastic or Lentisque is derived from the Pistacia lentiscus shrub, native to the Mediterranean basin. The resin, also called Mastiha or Chios Tears, has been a prized commodity since antiquity, with its name stemming from the Greek word "mastichien," meaning to chew. This resin has a long history of use in ancient medicine, as a breath freshener (chewing gum), and as a culinary flavoring agent. The Greek island of Chios remains the historically recognized and primary source for the hardened, collectible resin.

In fine perfumery, both the resin and the essential oil/absolute from the leaves and twigs (Lentisque) are utilized. The essential oil offers a fresher, more herbaceous, and intensely green profile with subtle woody, camphoraceous, and spicy undertones, differentiating it from traditional citrus oils. This complexity allows it to function as a sophisticated green note, often used to modernize fresh and fougere structures, and is prized for its fixative properties, providing enduring, natural freshness.

Extraction Methods of Mastic or Lentisque

Historically, the extraction of mastic resin is a manual, labor-intensive process known as "kentos," which has remained largely unchanged since antiquity. In the southern region of the Greek island of Chios, harvesters clear the ground beneath the Pistacia lentiscus trees and sprinkle it with inert calcium carbonate to create a clean surface. Small incisions are made in the bark of the trunk and major branches, allowing the resinous sap to "weep" and fall to the ground. These "tears of Chios" harden into brittle, translucent crystals over several weeks before being collected, washed in natural spring water, and meticulously cleaned by hand to remove impurities like sand and bark.

In modern perfumery, the hardened resin and the plant's aerial parts (leaves and twigs) are processed using diverse technologies to obtain aromatic materials. The essential oil is most commonly produced through steam distillation or hydrodistillation using a Clevenger-type apparatus, while absolutes are obtained via solvent extraction. To meet contemporary demands for purity and specific olfactive profiles, advanced techniques such as molecular distillation are employed to remove undesirable "dirty" top notes and colorants. Furthermore, innovative methods like microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) using CO2, and superheated steam extraction (SHSE) are increasingly utilized to improve yields and preserve the delicate, oxygenated terpenes that provide the note's characteristic Mediterranean freshness.

Mastic, or Lentisque, is highly valued in modern perfumery for providing a radiant, sophisticated, and lasting green-citrus freshness. Two of the most recognized and high-impact uses are in designer fragrances, where the note contributes a zesty, herbaceous lift: < b >Tom Ford Noir Extreme and < b >Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò Profondo. In these compositions, the note is key to the fragrance's sparkling opening and its Mediterranean aromatic character.

  • The versatility of Mastic allows it to be used across different fragrance families.

The note is also a cornerstone in classic and niche scents that aim for a photorealistic Mediterranean or Eau de Cologne structure. Its clean, terpenic aroma, often described as sun-warmed pine needles, is utilized in aromatic and watery compositions like < b >Acqua di Parma Blue Mediterraneo - Mirto di Panarea. Furthermore, niche houses prize it for its green-fixative properties, evident in scents like < b >Diptyque's Eau de Lierre and < b >Tom Ford Costa Azzurra which emphasize the note’s sharp, vegetal quality.

  • Mastic's resinous side provides depth for complex, long-lasting aromas.

For more complex and resinous compositions, Mastic’s balsamic and woody undertones lend depth to oriental and iris-focused fragrances. It provides a dry, aromatic texture in elegant scents such as < b >Prada Infusion d'Iris and < b >Maison Crivelli Iris Malikhân, offering a sophisticated counterbalance to softer notes. Its resinous quality is also subtly used in rich, luxurious blends like < b >Amouage Jubilation XXV to evoke a sense of ancient, high-quality ingredients.

The seasonality of Mastic (Lentisque) is primarily defined by the flowering and harvesting cycles of the Pistacia lentiscus shrub in the Mediterranean. Blooming typically occurs in the spring, between April and May, when the plant produces separate male and female flowers. While the shrub is an evergreen that retains its foliage year-round, the precious resin is harvested during the dry summer and early autumn months, specifically from July through September. During this period, harvesters make small incisions in the bark to allow the liquid resin to exude and solidify into "tears" before they are collected. Interestingly, the resin is known to harden into its characteristic brittle form only when the weather begins to turn cold. In perfumery, the note's green, piney facets are often highlighted in spring and summer compositions, while its balsamic and fixative qualities provide depth and longevity during the fall and winter.

Sustainability Of Mastic or Lentisque

Sustainability of Mastic or Lentisque

  • Promoting responsible harvesting through the Chios Mastic Producers Association and Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status to ensure traceability and ecological stewardship
  • Implementing traditional, low-impact manual extraction methods that avoid over-tapping and allow trees sufficient time to recover between seasons
  • Adopting sustainable harvesting practices in regions like the Rif mountains of Morocco, where only select branches are taken from each plant to preserve the resource
  • Utilizing the mastic tree's high tolerance for heat and drought to support reforestation and maintain plant cover in arid regions prone to climate change
  • Supporting local socio-economic resilience through community involvement and regulatory measures that prevent overharvesting while ensuring fair compensation for producers

Trivia

Mastic is the world's original chewing gum and its name is the root of the word mastication; it was so highly valued that for centuries, stealing the resin from the Greek island of Chios was a crime punishable by death.

FAQ
  • What is Mastic or Lentisque?

    Mastic is a natural resin obtained from the Pistacia lentiscus shrub, primarily grown on the Greek island of Chios, and is historically known as the world's original chewing gum.
  • What does Mastic smell like?

    It offers a bright, fresh, and intensely green balsamic aroma with herbal, pine-like facets and warm, woody resinous undertones.
  • How is Mastic essence extracted for perfumery?

    The note is typically obtained through the distillation of the resin (mastic) or the leaves and twigs (lentisque) of the shrub.
  • What are some top perfumes featuring Mastic?

    Notable fragrances include Tom Ford Noir Extreme, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò Profondo, Prada Infusion d'Iris, and Acqua di Parma Blue Mediterraneo - Mirto di Panarea.
  • What is the historical significance of Mastic?

    Used for over 2,500 years in medicine and cuisine, it was so highly valued in Chios that stealing it was once a crime punishable by death.