Fragrance Notes Are Layers Of Scent That Are Layered To Form The Final Fragrance. Fragrance Notes Are Categorised Into Three Main Elements Based On How Long They Take To Evaporate, And How Long They Typically Last Following Application: Top Notes, Heart Notes And Base Notes.
Fish
A complex, non-traditional note characterized by sharp, metallic, and savory nuances. It often features ammine-like, oily, and trimethylamine facets, suggesting raw or marine qualities. In specialized compositions, it can lend a unique, slightly sulfureous, or aquatic/rancid texture, rarely used for freshness but rather for challenging realism.
Origin & Extraction Of Fish
The concept of an animalic and marine scent has a long, distinguished history in perfumery, primarily through the rare natural substance known as ambergris. Produced by the digestive system of the sperm whale, raw ambergris is initially described as having a strong fecal or fishy/salty smell. However, after floating on the ocean for years, it ages into a highly prized, musky, sweet, and complex marine aroma. Dating back over a thousand years, ambergris was historically valued as a crucial fixative that made a fragrance last longer, though it has largely been replaced by synthetic alternatives like ambroxide in modern, mainstream perfumery.
The specific note of "Fish" in contemporary fine perfumery is generally utilized in a highly abstract, unconventional, or niche manner. It is typically not used to suggest a literal decaying smell, but rather to contribute to an aquatic, ozonic, or abstract marine accord, often grouped with other "weird" or challenging natural notes. This modern approach seeks to evoke the freshness of a river, the saltiness of the sea, or the clean scent of a unique aquatic element, demonstrating a movement toward photorealistic and complex natural themes in modern fragrance design.
Historically, "fishy" or marine notes in perfumery were predominantly derived from natural ambergris, a rare secretion from the sperm whale. Authentic ambergris is not extracted through traditional mechanical means but is rather collected as a scavenged material. It is naturally expelled by the whale and must float on the ocean for years, where salt water and sunlight oxidize the substance, transforming it from a foul-smelling black mass into a hard, light-colored waxy stone with a prized musky, sweet, and marine aroma. Once found, this aged "grey amber" was typically ground into a powder or tinctured in alcohol to be used as a high-end fixative.
In modern perfumery, literal fish notes or their chemical cousins are largely produced through synthetic chemistry. To replicate the complex profile of ambergris or to create specific aquatic accords, scientists utilize lab-synthesized molecules like Ambroxan (ambroxide), which is often derived from sclareol found in clary sage. Other industrial extraction methods for fish oil—primarily for pharmaceutical use rather than fine fragrance—include wet pressing, which involves cooking, pressing, and centrifuging the fish. Advanced contemporary techniques such as supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) using carbon dioxide and enzymatic hydrolysis are also employed to isolate high-purity oils while preventing the oxidation of sensitive compounds.
The "Fish" note is rarely used intentionally as a primary accord in mainstream perfumery. When it does appear, it is typically in avant-garde or highly specific niche fragrances that aim for photorealistic or unsettling marine/aquatic concepts. Examples of fragrances that explicitly list this note, or are associated with this unusual profile, include Rammstein Seemann and Hilde Soliani Eau de Cuisine, which explore unconventional sensory experiences beyond typical pleasant aromas.
More commonly, the perception of a "fishy" or "calamari" note is an unintended, unpleasant side-effect that some individuals experience with certain synthetic marine or aquatic accords (often Calone or specific musks). While not intentionally formulated to smell like fish, this is an unfortunate reality for some wearers of fragrances like Sirenis by Liquides Imaginaires, which is designed to evoke a fantastical sea theme. The subtle hint of the sea or 'marine accord' in scents like Diptyque Do Son Eau de Parfum is carefully balanced to avoid this pitfall.
The fishy or animalic quality can sometimes be traced to other raw materials. For instance, the synthetic replacement for natural ambergris, Ambroxan (present in fragrances like Henry Rose Jake's House Eau de Parfum and Maison Margiela Sailing Day), can, in certain compositions, lean towards a salty, animalic, or even an unexpectedly "off" smell. Furthermore, some high-impact florals containing compounds like Indole, such as Orange Blossom or Jasmine, can occasionally be perceived as having an unpleasant fecal or fishy undertone, which is sometimes mistaken for a marine note.
Sustainability Of Fish
Sustainability of Fish Note
- Reducing environmental impact by utilizing synthetic alternatives to natural marine ingredients like ambergris, preventing the exploitation of marine species
- Adopting green chemistry principles in the synthesis of marine accords to minimize the generation of hazardous substances and waste
- Prioritizing the use of biotech-derived vegan substitutes created through microbial engineering to replicate complex aquatic scents without animal input
- Supporting the transition toward "non-animal methods" (NAMs) in fragrance development to eliminate reliance on materials sourced from live or dead animals
- Implementing energy-efficient manufacturing processes and safer solvent choices to lower the carbon footprint of synthetic fragrance production
Trivia
In perfumery, fishy or brackish odors are often caused by skatole, a compound found in the scent of rotting fish that is also naturally present in white flowers like jasmine and orange blossom.
What is the Fish note in perfumery?
The Fish note is an unconventional, niche aroma used to create photorealistic marine or aquatic accords, often suggesting briny, metallic, or savory qualities rather than literal decay.What does the Fish note smell like?
It is characterized by sharp, metallic, and oily nuances with ammine-like facets that evoke a raw, marine, or sometimes slightly sulfureous and salty texture.How is the Fish note produced?
In modern perfumery, this note is primarily synthetic, though historically it was associated with raw ambergris before the aging process transformed it into a sweet, musky scent.What are some perfumes that feature a Fish-like profile?
Fragrances explicitly exploring this unusual scent include Rammstein Seemann and Hilde Soliani Eau de Cuisine, while others like Sirenis by Liquides Imaginaires may evoke a similar marine impression.Why do some floral perfumes smell fishy?
Certain high-impact natural materials like jasmine or orange blossom contain indole, a compound that can occasionally be perceived as having an unpleasant fishy or fecal undertone.