Scent Notes
Journey through the building blocks of fragrance, from Bergamot to Ambergris.
RESINS AND BALSAMS
Incense
Incense in perfumery typically refers to Olibanum (Frankincense), offering a complex, resinous, and warm profile. It features smoky, woody, and spicy undertones, often blending sweet, balsamic, and slightly medicinal facets. This note is valued for adding depth, richness, and a mysterious, ancient quality to a fragrance.
History
Brief History of Incense
Incense has a history as old as perfumery itself, with the word ‘perfume’ originating from the Latin ‘per fumum’ meaning ‘through smoke,’ as the first fragrances were aromatic materials that were burned. Its use dates back thousands of years, with the earliest evidence found in ancient Nubia and Egypt (around 3000 BCE), where priests burned aromatic resins and gums, such as frankincense and myrrh, for religious ceremonies, as offerings to deities, and for mummification. The material was a highly prized commodity, fueling the ancient ‘Incense Route’ trade network and becoming central to religious rites across civilizations including the Babylonians, Romans, Hindus, and Buddhists.
As the use of incense spread, its cultural practice became more refined, notably in Japan where the art of *Kōdō*, or the ‘Way of Fragrance,’ emerged to elevate its appreciation to an artistic pleasure. In liquid perfumery, the Incense note—often the resin olibanum, or frankincense—is a foundational element in many compositions. It imparts a crucial quality of richness, intensity, and spiritual depth, serving to anchor fragrances and provide a timeless, often dark, smoky, or woody aroma that bridges ancient ritualism with modern sophisticated scents.
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Famous Perfumes with Incense Note
The Incense note is arguably most famous for its association with the ‘sacred’ or ‘churchy’ style of fragrance. This category is epitomized by Comme des Garçons Series 3 Incense: Avignon, a benchmark scent that perfectly captures the cool, dry, and spiritual aroma of frankincense and myrrh found in a Catholic cathedral. Other notable fragrances in this spiritual vein include Heeley’s Cardinal (also known as Eau Sacree) and the extensive work of Filippo Sorcinelli, with compositions like Lavs and Quando rapita in estasi providing authentic, multi-faceted interpretations of liturgical smoke.
A contrasting, yet highly popular, style of incense is the dry, smoky, and often minimalistic interpretation. These fragrances focus less on resinous sweetness and more on a stripped-down, ashy character. Serge Lutens L’orpheline is celebrated for its ethereal blend of clean musk and cooling, contemplative incense, while Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse is prized for its intensely dry, smoky wood note that evokes the scent of a long-extinguished campfire. For a sharper, peppery take, Comme des Garçons Black offers an enigmatic blend of incense and smoky spice.
Incense also plays a crucial role in rich, warm, and resinous compositions, where it is often paired with notes like amber, vanilla, or spices to create deep, oriental structures. Matiere Premiere Encens Suave is a modern favorite that balances dark, non-sweet vanilla with opulence, while Tom Ford Sahara Noir (and the related Amber Absolute) showcases the note’s luxurious, spicy side by blending burning woods, frankincense, and rich amber. Similarly, Amouage’s celebrated Interlude Man uses copious amounts of dry incense to anchor its complex, opulent, and warm profile.
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